In 2018 we celebrated our birthdays with a trip to Ushuaia (a.k.a. The Southern Most City in the World) in Argentina. Back then we didn’t even imagine we would be starting a travel blog from across the globe just a few years later!
Nevertheless, our trip to Ushuaia was a dream come true. Being born and bred Brazilians, this was our first ever contact with snow and it couldn’t have been any dreamier.
The southernmost, smallest, and least populous Argentine province, known as Tierra del Fuego, is where Ushuaia is located. It is dramatically situated between the snowy mountains and the icy Beagle Channel and it’s the perfect base to explore the incredible lands that border the channel.
Fun fact: Tierra del Fuego had been inhabited by indigenous people for more than 12,000 years and it remained under indigenous control even after Argentina achieved independence, up until 1885.
Experience winter at the end of the world with our Perfect 3-Day Winter Itinerary to Ushuaia!
Day 1 – 4WD Off-Road Lakes Adventure
Get ready for a full day of adventure right from the start! We bought this 4WD Off-Road Lakes Adventure from Info Ushuaia. Prices should be around 120 euros per person and despite being a little salty, this is a must-experience and one of the highlights of this trip, so completely worth the price!
The Experience
The tour begins at 9 am and they pick you up for free at the hotel. After everyone is picked up, we set off to the mountains. The first stop was the town of Tolhuin and the famous Emilio bakery for breakfast. Make sure to get some medialunas with your coffee!
Fagnano Lake
The second stop is the immense Fagnano Lake. Here our guide taught us that the indigenous people from this area walked around completely naked, wearing nothing but whale fat, which they used to spread on their bodies to protect against the cold (gotta use what you have right?!).
Lago Escondido’s Viewpoint
On our way to the next stop, we found ourselves in the middle of the Andes mountains and the Garibaldi Pass, at Lago Escondido’s viewpoint. Unfortunately (or very fortunately), it was snowing so much we couldn’t see a thing from up there. They offered us some cold cuts, bread, and wine, and even without the views the experience was amazing!
Valle de Lobos
We then made it to Valle de Lobos where lunch would be served. They prepared the famous Argentine Asado (barbecue) for lunch, which consisted of steak, chorizo (local sausage), salad, soda, and wine (vegetarian options were also available).
The food was delicious! But what we loved the most was that they created an amazing space for the people on the tour to get to know each other.
The dogs were not feeling well enough for a sled ride so we did a quad tour around the area which was super exciting! Both the dog sled ride and the quad tour were not included in the price so if you plan on doing it, you should take some cash with you.
Where to Eat in Ushuaia
They dropped us at the hotel door at about 5 pm and we then headed out for dinner. We know how overwhelming it can be to look for a place to eat after a long day out, so we separated some really good options for you in this guide:
🦀 El Viejo Marino: one of the most popular restaurants on Ushuaia’s waterfront, this is the best place to try the famous King Crab. They fish all of the seafood themselves so everything is as fresh as it can be. It is also considered the cheapest place to eat King Crab in the city.
🐠 Volver and Tia Elvira: also located on the waterfront, they offer a wider menu in case you’re not that into King Crab. Although they are focused on seafood dishes only.
🍕 Dona Lupita: for a very local and inexpensive experience, head out to Dona Lupita. They serve pizza and Argentinean empanadas – make sure to try those! Lots of locals frequent the place which usually indicates that it is trustable. It has a casual atmosphere and fast and friendly service.
🍷 Kaupé and Küar Resto Bar: if you’re looking for a fine dining experience, these are the places to go. Both serve incredible meat and seafood. Kaupé is a family restaurant located in the city center, with beautiful views of the city while Küar Resto Bar, on the other hand, is located about an 8-minute drive from the city center, with a beautiful rustic ambiance and views of the Beagle Channel.
Day 2 – Dog sledding in the mountains
Start with a City Stroll
Start your day heading for a walk in the city. We had breakfast at the hotel and managed to catch the sunrise at the Ushuaia monument at around 10 am.
Next to the monument, there are a few stalls selling tours – we bought one here for Centro Invernal Las Cotorras. Which was basically just transportation up and down the mountain. Thinking back, maybe contacting a taxi and agreeing on a pick-up time would also work just fine so here’s a tip for you.
We didn’t have the best experience with this specific driver as he tried to take us to a closer spot once we had already paid. It all worked out in the end but watch out – the place he tried to convince us to go was half the price of the tour we paid for.
Centro Invernal Las Cotorras
The Centro Invernal Las Cotorras is a winter complex that offers activities such as snowmobiling, snowshoeing, and cross-country skiing.
Dog Sled Rides
The main reason you should want to visit this place is that the Siberianos de Fuego kennel also operates in this complex, training Siberian Husky and Alaskan Husky for sled rides.
Contrary to popular belief, we learned here that the dogs love to go on rides! It’s a healthy stimuli for such powerful dogs, both physically and mentally as they follow the commands of the sled rider.
We spent most of the day here just petting the dogs (almost got our hands frozen) and went on a dog sledding ride. It was amazing to see how much care and love the workers put into making sure all dogs are healthy and happy!
Fun fact: all the dogs are named and have their own house. They are grouped by intelligence and strength, with the huskies almost always supplying the strength and the stray dogs the intelligence. Stray dogs are usually the ones leading the sled, receiving commands from the rider, and guiding all of the other dogs!
Roast Lamb
Also in the complex, you’ll find a great restaurant that serves roast lamb, homemade ice cream, and the peculiar “café del mono” (coffee made from beans chewed and spitted by monkeys).
We had roast lamb and it was delicious! It is a bit on the pricier side but the food is great, the views from the restaurant are breathtaking, the setting is super romantic and it all adds up to an exceptional experience.
Once back in town, have a relaxed night out for dinner!
Day 3 – All-Day Skiing
Cerro Castor Ski Resort
Skiing or snowboarding in Ushuaia is a must-activity during winter! Luckily, one of Argentina’s most modern and well-established ski resorts is located in Ushuaia. The Cerro Castor Ski Resort is located about 26 km from the city center and it’s easily reachable via taxi or a daily shuttle bus.
The daily pass at the resort changes every year and it’s very hard to find the prices online before the season starts. We recommend messaging the resort for this information.
Note: You can monitor the opening of Cerro Castor on their Instagram Page.
Unfortunately, the resort had not opened yet for its winter season when we visited so we had to find a replacement.
Martial Glacier
We discovered that high up above the city is Martial Glacier, a mountain where you can explore and ski for free. It is said that during ski season they assemble a chair lift but there wasn’t any during our visit.
Since it was our first time ever on a ski mountain, we didn’t miss the chair lift at all. But if you’re an experienced skier or snowboarder, the lack of it might be a huge no-no.
At the base of the mountain, there’s a ski school where you can rent equipment and take on a few classes, a small restaurant, a tea & cake shop, and a gift shop. We got beers and empanadas, the perfect combo!
There’s also a photographer who takes pictures and sells them at the restaurant (she made us look like professionals in these pictures when in reality we couldn’t even stand up on the board).
We’ll confess that we had much more fun using a snow sled to go down the mountain comfortably sitting on our butts!
Once back at the hotel, we got ready for dinner night at the Küar Resto Bar. The place is incredibly beautiful and the food is delicious. It’s a fine dining experience which means it comes with a salty price tag, but we loved it and recommend it!
When to Visit Ushuaia
Winter in Ushuaia, as in the rest of the Southern Hemisphere, happens from June to mid-October. The months with the most snow are usually July and August. The daily average temperature during winter is 1°C, and the snow in Ushuaia is recognized as the best in Argentina!
Days in winter are smaller as well, so you can expect to have sunrise at about 10 am and sunsets at 5 pm. We were shocked to arrive at the airport in a pitch-black sky at 9 am!
Fun fact: Ushuaia is cold all year round. The hottest it gets typically ranges from 6°C to 13°C.
Although the snow period should start by the end of May, we visited at the end of June and arrived right after the first big snowfall. So if you’re planning on getting the most out of your winter trip to Ushuaia, we recommend playing safe and visiting after July.
How to Get Around Ushuaia
✈️ Getting from the airport to the city: The airport is located about 10 minutes away from the city center, so we recommend taking a taxi. You can also rent a car from the airport but we don’t recommend doing so unless you have plenty of experience with driving in the snow.
🚕 Getting around the city center: Ushuaia is quite small, so most places can be done by walking. Taxis are available in every other corner as well and are an inexpensive (and much warmer) way to get around. Always agree on a fare before starting your ride!
🚗 Getting from the city center to the outskirts: Most of Ushuaia’s attractions and activities are located on the outskirts, so if you’re getting a taxi, we recommend agreeing on a fare beforehand as well as on a time and place for pick-up. We opted for guided tours so we didn’t have to worry about transportation.
What to do if you have more time
- Trek to Laguna Esmeralda
- Beagle Channel boat tour
- Tierra del Fuego National Park
- Trekking in the valley with snowshoes
- Scenic Helicopter Flight
- Museums: Marítimo Museum & Presidio
- Cross Country Ski
